How to Perform CPR on Dogs: Emergency Tips to Save Your Pet’s Life
There’s a moment every dog owner dreads but rarely prepares for – the moment when your beloved companion collapses, stops breathing, or shows no signs of life. Your heart races, your hands shake, and panic threatens to overwhelm you. In these critical seconds, the difference between life and death often comes down to one simple question: Do you know what to do? Most dog owners would answer no. Despite our deep love for our canine companions and our willingness to do anything to protect them, the vast majority of us have never learned the basics of canine CPR and would be completely helpless in the face of a true emergency.
The statistics are sobering. Cardiac arrest in dogs outside of veterinary settings has extremely low survival rates – some studies suggest less than 6% of dogs who experience cardiac arrest at home survive even with CPR attempts. However, those numbers improve dramatically when bystanders immediately perform effective CPR and transport quickly to emergency veterinary care. Every second counts when a heart stops beating and a brain stops receiving oxygen. Brain damage begins within 3-4 minutes of oxygen deprivation, and irreversible damage occurs after 6-10 minutes. If you wait for emergency responders or drive to a veterinary clinic before starting CPR, those critical minutes slip away while your dog’s chances of survival plummet.
Learning CPR doesn’t guarantee you’ll save your dog’s life in an emergency – sometimes injuries or illnesses are simply too severe for any intervention to matter. But CPR gives your dog a fighting chance when cardiac arrest occurs from drowning, choking, trauma, electric shock, anaphylactic reactions, or other acute causes where the heart and breathing stop but might be restarted. The knowledge that you did everything possible in those desperate moments, that you didn’t stand by helplessly while your dog died, provides some comfort even in worst-case scenarios. And in best-case scenarios, your immediate action and knowledge of proper CPR technique could literally bring your dog back from the brink of death.
This comprehensive guide provides detailed, step-by-step instructions for performing CPR on dogs of all sizes, including when CPR is appropriate versus when it won’t help, how to assess consciousness and vital signs, the CAB method (Compressions, Airway, Breathing) recommended by veterinary emergency medicine specialists, specific techniques for small versus large dogs with visual descriptions, and critically important information about getting to emergency veterinary care while performing CPR. This guide is designed to be printed and kept with your pet first aid supplies so it’s available when you need it most – because emergencies don’t wait for you to search the internet for instructions.
When to Perform CPR
Not every emergency requires CPR, and attempting CPR when it’s not needed can cause harm or delay appropriate treatment. Understanding when CPR is necessary versus when other interventions are needed is the critical first step in emergency response.
Checking for Consciousness
The first assessment is determining whether your dog is conscious. Call your dog’s name loudly and firmly. Tap or gently shake their body. Check for any response including eye movement, ear twitching, limb movement, or attempts to lift their head. A conscious dog, even one who is severely ill or injured, does not need CPR. Conscious dogs need immediate veterinary care and supportive first aid appropriate to their specific condition, but not chest compressions or rescue breathing which could cause injury.
If your dog is unconscious but still breathing and has a heartbeat, they still don’t need CPR – they need emergency veterinary transport in a position that maintains open airways (usually on their right side) and continuous monitoring of breathing and pulse. Position their head and neck in a neutral alignment to keep airways open. CPR is only needed when both breathing and heartbeat are absent or when breathing has stopped and heartbeat is failing.
Assessing Breathing
After determining your dog is unconscious, immediately assess breathing. Watch their chest for any rise and fall indicating breath movement. Place your hand or cheek near their nose and mouth to feel for exhaled air. Listen for breath sounds. Normal breathing should be obvious – the chest rises and falls regularly, you can feel warm air from their nose, and you hear breath sounds.
Agonal breathing, characterized by occasional gasps or irregular, ineffective breathing attempts, is not adequate breathing and should be treated as absent breathing requiring CPR. These gasping breaths occur when the brain is oxygen-deprived and don’t provide effective oxygen exchange. If you see occasional gasps but no regular breathing pattern, treat this as respiratory arrest and begin CPR.
Checking for Heartbeat
Checking for a heartbeat in dogs requires knowing where to feel. The easiest location is on the left side of the chest behind the elbow – place your hand on the chest wall just behind the point of the elbow and feel for the heartbeat. You may need to press somewhat firmly to feel it through the chest wall, particularly in large or overweight dogs. Count the beats for 10 seconds – if you feel any beats, your dog has a heartbeat.
You can also check the femoral pulse on the inside of the thigh near where the leg meets the body. Press your fingers gently but firmly into the groove between muscles to feel for the pulse. This location can be easier to find in some dogs but requires practice to locate quickly in an emergency.
If you cannot find a heartbeat within 10 seconds of checking, assume cardiac arrest and begin CPR immediately. Don’t waste precious minutes searching extensively for a pulse you might be missing – if you can’t find it quickly, start CPR. The risk of performing unnecessary CPR is far less than the risk of delaying needed CPR.
When Not to Perform CPR
There are situations where CPR should not be performed because it won’t help or could cause harm. Do not perform CPR if your dog is conscious – even if they’re struggling to breathe or appear to be dying, a conscious dog needs different interventions, not chest compressions. Your dog has a heartbeat and is breathing adequately, even if breathing seems labored or weak. Your dog has a known terminal illness and you’ve made decisions about end-of-life care that exclude resuscitation attempts. Your dog has obvious fatal injuries including massive trauma, decapitation, or injuries incompatible with life. Rigor mortis is present (body stiffness after death) indicating your dog has been deceased for hours.
If your dog has stopped breathing but still has a heartbeat, you may need rescue breathing without chest compressions. This scenario requires different technique than full CPR and ideally should be guided by veterinary professionals via phone while you transport to emergency care.
Signs Requiring Immediate CPR
Begin CPR immediately if your dog is unconscious, not breathing or only showing agonal gasping breaths, has no detectable heartbeat or pulse, has blue or gray gums indicating lack of oxygen, or is unresponsive to all stimuli. In these situations, every second of delay reduces survival chances. Don’t wait to call the vet before starting CPR – if you’re alone, begin CPR first and call for help after 2 minutes of CPR cycles, or immediately if someone else is present who can make the call while you perform CPR.
Time is brain when cardiac arrest occurs. The sooner you start effective CPR, the better your dog’s chances. Studies show that immediate bystander CPR doubles or triples survival rates compared to waiting for professional help before starting resuscitation efforts.
CAB Method
Modern CPR guidelines for both humans and animals have shifted from the old ABC sequence (Airway, Breathing, Compressions) to CAB (Compressions, Airway, Breathing). This change reflects research showing that immediate chest compressions are more critical than establishing airways first, and that delays to begin breathing support reduce survival compared to starting compressions immediately.
Compressions (Rate, Depth by Dog Size)
Chest compressions are the most important component of CPR because they manually circulate blood to the brain and vital organs when the heart has stopped beating. The compression rate for dogs is 100-120 compressions per minute regardless of dog size – this is the same rate as the beat of the song “Stayin’ Alive” by the Bee Gees, which many people use as a mental metronome during CPR.
Compression depth varies by dog size because you need to compress the chest approximately one-third to one-half its width to effectively squeeze the heart and create blood flow. For small dogs (under 30 pounds), compress 1-2 inches deep. For medium to large dogs (30-90 pounds), compress 2-3 inches deep. For giant breed dogs (over 90 pounds), compress 3-4 inches deep. These are significant compressions that require real force – you should see obvious chest compression with each push.
Push hard and push fast, allowing the chest to fully recoil between compressions. The recoil is just as important as the compression because it allows blood to refill the heart chambers. Don’t lean on the chest between compressions – completely release pressure while maintaining hand position.
Continue compressions for 30 compressions before stopping to give rescue breaths. This 30:2 ratio (30 compressions to 2 breaths) is standard for both one-person and two-person CPR in dogs.
Airway (Opening and Checking)
After 30 compressions, quickly check and open the airway before giving rescue breaths. Straighten your dog’s neck to create a straight line from nose to chest – this opens the airway maximally. Gently pull the tongue forward slightly if it has fallen back into the throat. Do a finger sweep of the mouth to remove any obvious obstructions including vomit, foreign objects, or fluids. Be cautious during the finger sweep as even unconscious dogs may have reflexive bite responses.
Look for anything blocking the airway. If you see a foreign object lodged in the throat, attempt to remove it carefully. If it’s too far back to safely remove or if it’s firmly lodged, proceed with rescue breaths and compressions – the pressure from rescue breaths may dislodge the object, and CPR is still beneficial even with partial airway obstruction.
Breathing (Rescue Breaths Technique)
After checking the airway, deliver 2 rescue breaths. For most dogs, close their mouth completely by wrapping your hand around their muzzle to seal their lips. Place your mouth over their nose and blow steadily for 1 second, watching to see the chest rise. The chest should visibly expand if you’re delivering effective breaths. Give a second breath, then immediately resume chest compressions.
If the chest doesn’t rise with your rescue breaths, the airway may be blocked. Recheck the mouth for obstructions, reposition the head and neck, and ensure you’re creating a good seal over the nose with the mouth completely closed. Try again with slightly more force on the breaths, but don’t blow so hard that you cause stomach inflation or lung damage.
For small dogs, you may need to breathe more gently as their lungs are smaller and more delicate. For giant breed dogs, you’ll need strong breaths to adequately inflate their large lungs. Match your breath volume to your dog’s size.
Step-by-Step for Small Dogs
Small dogs (under 30 pounds including breeds like Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Pomeranians, small terriers, and other toy or miniature breeds) require modified CPR technique compared to larger dogs due to their size and delicate structures.
Positioning
Place your small dog on a firm, flat surface – a table, floor, or any hard surface. Soft surfaces like beds or car seats absorb the force of compressions and make CPR ineffective. Position your dog on their right side (left side up) with their back toward you or with their spine aligned with your body. This positioning places the heart closest to the surface where you’ll be compressing.
Straighten their neck to open the airway, creating a straight line from nose through neck to chest. Remove any collar or harness that might restrict breathing or chest expansion.
One-Handed Compressions
For small dogs, use one-handed compressions. Place the heel of one hand on the left side of the chest just behind the elbow where the chest is widest. This position is directly over the heart. Your other hand can stabilize the dog’s body or be placed on top of your compressing hand for additional support and leverage if needed.
Using primarily your arm strength, compress the chest straight down 1-2 inches (approximately one-third to one-half the chest width). The compression should be firm enough to significantly squeeze the chest cavity. Allow complete recoil between compressions without removing your hand from position. Compress at a rate of 100-120 compressions per minute (about 2 compressions per second).
Count compressions aloud to maintain rhythm: “1, 2, 3, 4, 5…” up to 30, then stop for rescue breaths. The counting helps maintain appropriate rate and ensures you deliver the full 30 compressions before pausing for breaths.
Compression to Breath Ratio (30:2)
After 30 compressions, immediately move to rescue breaths. Close your dog’s mouth completely, covering their muzzle with one hand. Place your mouth over their nose, creating a seal, and deliver one breath lasting approximately 1 second. Watch for the chest to rise. Deliver a second breath. Immediately resume chest compressions without delay.
This 30:2 cycle continues for 2 minutes (about 5 complete cycles), after which you check for heartbeat and breathing for 10 seconds. If there’s no heartbeat or breathing, resume CPR immediately.
Visual Description
Imagine pressing down on a small, firm cushion with enough force to compress it halfway – that’s the amount of compression needed. Your hand placement should be such that your fingers wrap partially around the chest with your palm over the heart. The motion is straight down and straight up, not rocking or angling. The dog’s chest should visibly compress and release with each compression cycle.
For rescue breaths, picture covering a small dog’s nose with your mouth as if you were kissing their nose, creating an airtight seal, then breathing out steadily as if inflating a small balloon. You should see their chest expand noticeably with each breath.
Common Mistakes
Avoid compressing too gently – many people are afraid of hurting small dogs and don’t compress deeply enough to create effective blood flow. While you should be appropriate for size, you must compress firmly enough to squeeze the heart. Don’t compress too far to the side or too far back on the chest – position should be directly over the heart behind the elbow at the widest part of the chest. Avoid delivering rescue breaths with too much force which can overinflate small lungs or fill the stomach with air. Don’t pause compressions longer than necessary for rescue breaths – minimize interruptions to chest compressions as much as possible.
Step-by-Step for Large Dogs
Large dogs (30 pounds and above, including breeds like Labradors, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, and giant breeds like Great Danes and Mastiffs) require different positioning and technique due to their size and the depth of compressions needed to effectively squeeze their hearts.
Side Positioning
Place your large dog on their right side on the firmest surface available – floor is ideal, but any hard, flat surface works. Position yourself on the side of their back (behind them) or kneel over them if space allows. Straighten their head and neck to open airways fully. Remove collars or harnesses.
For giant breed dogs, you may need to kneel next to them or even stand in a partial squat position to get enough leverage for effective compressions due to their size and the depth of compression required.
Two-Handed Compressions
For large dogs, use two-handed compressions to generate sufficient force. Place the heel of one hand on the left side of the chest at the widest part, just behind the elbow and directly over the heart. Place your second hand on top of the first hand, interlacing fingers or keeping them parallel. Lock your elbows and position your shoulders directly above your hands so you can use your body weight to compress rather than relying solely on arm strength.
Compress straight down 2-3 inches for medium to large dogs (30-90 pounds) or 3-4 inches for giant breeds (over 90 pounds). These are significant, forceful compressions that require considerable strength. Allow complete chest recoil between compressions. Maintain the rate of 100-120 compressions per minute.
Your body position should allow you to rock forward using your upper body weight for compressions, then rock back to allow recoil. This rocking motion is less tiring than using arm strength alone and allows you to maintain effective compressions for the extended periods often needed during CPR.
Proper Hand Placement
Hand placement is critical for effective compressions. The target is the left side of the chest just behind the elbow at the widest part of the rib cage – this position places your hands directly over the heart. Too far forward and you’re compressing lungs without effectively squeezing the heart. Too far back and you miss the heart entirely or risk liver injury.
The widest part of the chest is generally 4-6 ribs back from the front of the chest, directly behind where the elbow touches the chest when the front leg is pulled back against the body. This landmark helps you find the correct position quickly.
For barrel-chested breeds (Bulldogs, Pit Bulls, some Mastiffs), the heart position is different than in deep-chested breeds (Greyhounds, Dobermans, Great Danes). Barrel-chested dogs may benefit from compressions directly on the sternum (breastbone) with the dog on their back rather than side compressions. However, side compressions work for most dogs and are easier to perform effectively, so use side positioning unless you’ve been specifically trained in alternative techniques for barrel-chested breeds.
Visual Description
Picture the motion of performing CPR on a human – your arms are straight, shoulders over hands, and you use your body weight to compress straight down, then release completely. The same principle applies to large dogs. You should see the chest visibly compress approximately one-third to one-half its width with each compression. The dog’s body may move slightly with each compression, but most of the motion should be chest compression rather than sliding the entire body.
For rescue breaths on large dogs, you’ll need to create a seal around their nose while holding their mouth closed, similar to small dogs but requiring more breath volume. You’re essentially breathing for a being with large lungs, so your breaths need to be full exhalations lasting about 1 second each. Watch for clear chest rise with each breath – if you don’t see the chest expand noticeably, increase breath force or check for airway obstructions.
Special Considerations
Large and giant breed dogs have considerable mass that makes CPR physically demanding. If you’re performing CPR alone, you may fatigue quickly, causing compressions to become less effective. Maintain proper form and depth even as you tire – shallow, rapid compressions are less effective than properly deep compressions even if the rate slows slightly. If another person is available, switch who is performing compressions every 2 minutes (after checking for pulse and breathing) to maintain compression quality.
Deep-chested breeds like Greyhounds, Dobermans, and Great Danes have hearts positioned differently than other dogs – their chests are very deep but narrow. The standard compression position works, but you may need to compress even more firmly to effectively squeeze the heart through the deep chest cavity.
Rescue Breathing Technique
Rescue breathing delivers oxygen to your dog’s lungs when they’ve stopped breathing. Even though compressions are performed first in the CAB sequence, rescue breaths remain an essential component of effective CPR.
Closing the Mouth
Before delivering rescue breaths, completely close your dog’s mouth. Wrap your hand around their muzzle with fingers on one side and thumb on the other, pressing their lips closed. For dogs with short muzzles (Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers), you may need to hold their mouth shut with one hand while using your other hand to create a seal, or you may need to place your mouth over both their nose and mouth due to their flat face structure.
Ensure the mouth is completely sealed – any gaps allow air to escape through the mouth instead of entering the lungs. Check that the tongue isn’t protruding or blocking the airway.
Sealing Your Mouth Over Nose
Position your mouth completely over your dog’s nose, creating an airtight seal. For small dogs, your mouth will cover their entire nose easily. For large dogs, you’ll need to press your lips firmly against their muzzle around the nose openings. The goal is preventing any air leakage during the breath.
Some people are uncomfortable with this mouth-to-snout contact, but in life-or-death emergencies, this discomfort is irrelevant. If you absolutely cannot perform mouth-to-snout breathing, you can use a barrier device if available (some pet first aid kits include them), or you can continue compressions-only CPR which is less effective but better than nothing.
Watching for Chest Rise
As you deliver each rescue breath, watch your dog’s chest. You should see visible chest expansion if your breath is entering the lungs effectively. The chest should rise noticeably, similar to how it would with normal breathing but potentially more pronounced.
If the chest doesn’t rise, check for problems: Is the airway blocked by foreign material, vomit, or the tongue? Is your seal effective or is air escaping? Is the head and neck position optimal for open airways? Make adjustments and attempt another breath.
Breath Volume and Frequency
Deliver breaths appropriate for your dog’s size. Small dogs need smaller breath volumes – imagine inflating a small balloon. Large dogs need substantial breath volumes comparable to breathing for a child. The breath should last approximately 1 second. Don’t blow too forcefully or rapidly, as this can force air into the stomach instead of lungs, causing gastric distension that interferes with effective CPR and can cause vomiting.
Give 2 rescue breaths after every 30 chest compressions. Don’t deliver more breaths than the 2 per cycle, as this causes excessive interruption of compressions and reduces blood flow effectiveness. The 30:2 ratio is based on research optimizing the balance between blood circulation from compressions and oxygen delivery from breaths.
Alternative Technique for Brachycephalic Breeds
Short-nosed breeds like Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese have anatomical differences that can make standard rescue breathing less effective. Their shortened skulls, narrow airways, and flat faces mean airways can collapse more easily and create a seal may require covering both nose and mouth simultaneously.
For these breeds, you may need to place your mouth over both the nose and mouth opening, creating a seal around the entire muzzle area. Alternatively, some rescuers find success pulling the tongue forward to open airways maximally before delivering breaths through the nose only. Be prepared to adapt based on what creates effective chest rise in your specific dog.
During CPR
CPR is not a one-time intervention but rather an ongoing process that continues until help arrives, your dog recovers, or it becomes clear that resuscitation is not possible. Managing this process effectively while monitoring for changes requires understanding what to do during extended CPR efforts.
Checking for Pulse Every 2 Minutes
After every 5 cycles of CPR (30 compressions and 2 breaths equals one cycle, so 5 cycles is approximately 2 minutes), pause compressions briefly to check for heartbeat and breathing. Place your hand on the left chest behind the elbow or check the femoral pulse on the inner thigh. Check for 5-10 seconds maximum – don’t waste precious time searching extensively for a pulse.
If you find a heartbeat and your dog is breathing, stop CPR immediately and monitor continuously while transporting to emergency veterinary care. If there’s a heartbeat but no breathing, continue rescue breaths only without compressions. If there’s no heartbeat and no breathing, immediately resume CPR starting with chest compressions.
These brief checks ensure you don’t continue CPR on a dog who has recovered spontaneous circulation, which could cause injury. However, keep checks very brief since interruptions to compressions reduce effectiveness.
When to Stop
Deciding when to stop CPR is one of the most difficult decisions you’ll face. Continue CPR until: your dog recovers spontaneous heartbeat and breathing, you arrive at emergency veterinary care and professionals take over, you are physically unable to continue due to exhaustion (in which case switch with another rescuer if available), or it becomes clear that resuscitation is not possible.
Signs that continued CPR is unlikely to succeed include: no return of heartbeat after 20 minutes of continuous, effective CPR; your dog’s pupils become fixed and dilated without any response to light (though this can be an unreliable indicator in some situations); rigor mortis begins (body stiffness indicating death occurred some time ago); or a veterinarian assesses the situation and recommends stopping.
There’s no specific time limit after which CPR must stop – some dogs have been successfully resuscitated after 20-30+ minutes of CPR, particularly if the cardiac arrest was witnessed immediately and CPR began without delay. However, prolonged CPR without any response (no gasping, no pulse fluctuations, no signs of improvement) has very poor prognosis.
The decision to continue or stop is deeply personal and depends on factors including how long your dog was down before you started CPR, the cause of cardiac arrest, your dog’s age and underlying health, and your physical ability to continue. There’s no wrong choice – you’re giving your dog every possible chance, and sometimes that chance isn’t enough through no fault of your own.
Getting to Emergency Vet
While CPR is essential, it’s not curative – it only maintains blood flow and oxygen delivery temporarily until the underlying cause can be addressed. Even if you successfully restore heartbeat and breathing, your dog needs immediate emergency veterinary care to treat whatever caused the cardiac arrest and to monitor for complications.
If you’re alone, perform CPR for 2 minutes (5 cycles), then call emergency veterinary services while preparing to transport, then resume CPR. If someone is with you, have them call immediately while you begin CPR, prepare for transport (getting car keys, warming up vehicle, clearing space for your dog), and ideally drive while you perform CPR during transport.
During transport, continue CPR if possible. If you’re alone driving, you’ll need to make the difficult choice between continuing CPR or driving. Generally, getting to professional help faster is more important than perfect CPR during transport, so focus on safe, rapid transport with brief CPR intervals when you can safely pull over. If you have a passenger, position yourself in the back seat or cargo area where you can perform CPR while someone else drives.
Call ahead to the emergency clinic so they can prepare for your arrival. Explain that you’re performing CPR and give an estimated time of arrival. They can have personnel and equipment ready, saving precious seconds upon arrival.
Having Someone Else Drive
Ideally, have another person drive so you can focus entirely on CPR during transport. Position yourself in the back seat or cargo area with your dog on a firm surface. Continue the 30:2 compression-to-breath ratio during the drive. The motion of the vehicle may make CPR more challenging, but do your best to maintain effective compressions.
If compressions become very difficult due to vehicle motion, focus on the most effective compressions possible even if the rate drops slightly. Some circulation is better than none. Continue rescue breaths at every 30 compressions regardless of compression quality.
Brief the driver on the route, the location of the emergency clinic, and emphasize that speed matters but safety still matters too – an accident on the way helps no one. The driver should focus solely on getting you there quickly and safely while you focus on CPR.
CPR Certification
While this guide provides essential information for performing emergency CPR, there’s no substitute for hands-on training with proper practice and feedback. CPR certification courses specifically for pet CPR teach you the correct technique, allow you to practice on manikins that provide realistic feedback, build muscle memory so you can perform CPR effectively under extreme stress, and give you confidence that you’re doing it correctly.
Pet CPR Courses Available
Many organizations offer pet CPR and first aid certification courses including the American Red Cross which offers online and in-person pet first aid courses including CPR, Pet Tech which provides comprehensive pet first aid and CPR certification nationally, local veterinary clinics or emergency hospitals which sometimes offer community CPR training, animal shelters or rescues which may provide training for volunteers and the public, and private pet first aid companies offering certification courses in various locations.
Courses typically last 4-8 hours and cover not just CPR but also choking response, bleeding control, fracture stabilization, and other emergency first aid skills. The cost ranges from $50-150 depending on the provider and course format. Many employers in pet care industries (grooming, boarding, dog walking, training) require or encourage pet CPR certification for staff.
Online courses provide flexibility and cover the theoretical knowledge thoroughly, but in-person courses are strongly recommended because they allow hands-on practice that online courses cannot replicate. The physical experience of performing compressions on a manikin at the correct depth and rate builds muscle memory that’s invaluable in real emergencies.
Practice on Manikins
CPR manikins designed for veterinary training provide realistic chest resistance and often include feedback mechanisms that indicate whether you’re compressing deeply enough and at the correct rate. Practicing on manikins allows you to: develop proper hand positioning, experience the correct compression depth for different size dogs, build stamina and understand how physically demanding CPR is, practice the timing and rhythm of 30:2 cycles, and gain confidence in your ability to perform CPR effectively.
Some manikins include features like airway management practice, pulse checking locations, and visual or audible feedback on compression quality. While manikins aren’t identical to real dogs, they’re far superior to no practice at all.
Never practice CPR techniques on your actual dog or any living animal – chest compressions can cause serious injury including rib fractures, lung bruising, and heart damage. Practice only on appropriate training manikins.
Refreshing Skills Annually
CPR skills decay rapidly without practice. Studies show that even experienced healthcare providers lose proficiency within months of training if they don’t use these skills regularly. For pet CPR where most people will hopefully never need to use their training, skills deterioration is even more pronounced.
Plan to refresh your CPR training annually through taking a refresher course, reviewing instructional materials and videos, or practicing on manikins if you have access to training equipment. Annual refreshers ensure your skills remain sharp and that you’re aware of any updates to CPR guidelines or techniques.
Many certification courses include two-year certifications, but that doesn’t mean your skills stay sharp for two years – it simply means your certification is valid that long. Consider annual refreshers regardless of certification validity.
Additional Training
Beyond basic CPR, consider additional emergency training including pet first aid for wounds, bleeding, fractures, and other injuries; choking response and foreign object removal (Heimlich maneuver for dogs); recognition of common emergencies like bloat, heatstroke, and poisoning; basic life support skills for stabilizing and transporting injured pets; and disaster preparedness for emergencies requiring evacuation or extended self-sufficiency.
Comprehensive pet first aid courses often cover all these topics plus CPR in a single certification program. These broader skills complement CPR training and prepare you for a wider range of emergencies you might encounter with your pets.
Printable Summary
[This section would ideally include a printable infographic with simple graphics showing hand placement, compression depth, and the step-by-step sequence. Since this is text format, here’s the content for such a printable guide]:
CANINE CPR QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
BEFORE STARTING:
- Check consciousness: Call name, tap body
- Check breathing: Watch chest, feel for breath
- Check heartbeat: Left chest behind elbow
- Start CPR if no breathing AND no heartbeat
CPR SEQUENCE (CAB METHOD):
C = COMPRESSIONS (Do 30)
- Rate: 100-120 per minute (2 per second)
- Depth: 1/3 to 1/2 chest width
- Small dogs (<30 lbs): 1-2 inches
- Large dogs (30-90 lbs): 2-3 inches
- Giant dogs (>90 lbs): 3-4 inches
- Position: Left side of chest behind elbow
- Technique: Press hard, press fast, full recoil
A = AIRWAY
- Straighten head and neck
- Check mouth for obstructions
- Pull tongue forward if needed
B = BREATHING (Give 2 breaths)
- Close dog’s mouth completely
- Seal YOUR mouth over dog’s nose
- Breathe steadily for 1 second each breath
- Watch for chest to rise
CONTINUE:
- Repeat cycle: 30 compressions, 2 breaths
- After 2 minutes (5 cycles), check pulse 10 seconds
- If no pulse, resume CPR immediately
- Continue until heartbeat returns or at vet
EMERGENCY NUMBERS:
- Your regular vet: ________________
- Emergency vet clinic: ________________
- Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661
- ASPCA Poison Control: (888) 426-4435
REMEMBER:
- Every second counts – start immediately
- Call for help but don’t delay CPR to call
- Get to emergency vet ASAP even if pulse returns
- You’re giving your dog a fighting chance
Learning CPR doesn’t mean you’re expecting tragedy – it means you’re preparing to give your dog every possible advantage if the unthinkable happens. The few hours invested in learning proper technique and the few minutes spent reviewing this guide could make the difference between life and death for your beloved companion. Print this guide, keep it with your pet first aid supplies, share it with family members who care for your dog, and consider taking a hands-on CPR certification course. Hope you never need this knowledge – but be ready to use it effectively if that moment comes. Your dog’s life may depend on the actions you take in those critical first minutes, and now you know exactly what to do. 🐕💙